Swatches and Squishiness

How has your week been?

A lot of mine has been about swatches and bundles of yarn – so that’s pretty good.

Swatches are an enormous part of a designer’s life. When you answer a magazine’s call for submissions for example, you need to swatch your stitch patterns in the right type of yarn.

Each design submitted will include a sketch, pictures of the swatch or swatches, a description and suggestions for the yarn and colours to make the item in – all brought together on a single page.

Recently I’ve submitted ideas to number of calls which has resulted in a pile of new swatches.

Over the past two or three weeks, I’ve had commissions come in from those ideas and agreed the actual yarns and colours to be used.

This means I’ve needed to sort out all the swatches for the commissioned designs and collect them up with the sketch and notes for each one while lovely swishy parcels arrive.

Now, I need to reswatch in the lovely yarns pictured before I start creating the patterns and samples. I need to know exactly how the final yarn choice behaves before I start the calculations for how many stitches I need etc.

But it is good to stop and admire all the fab yarn I’ll be working with. There are some old favourites in among the yarns pictured as well as some brand new items that I’m excited to work with. Some are so new they aren’t on the market yet – but they will be by the time the designs appear in magazines. It is a great privilege to be able to work with these.

I will share some in progress pics when I can but for now you are going to have to guess what I might be making from these swatches and yarns.

Sewing up and more upcoming classes

I have a number of classes coming up at The Yarn Dispensary in Faversham over the next couple of months. Starting with something I think is a very important skill – joining your knitting with confidence. We’ll be practising mattress stitch, three needle bind offs and grafting/Kitchener stitch to help you finish your projects beautifully.

• 22 March - Finishing your Knits - Sewing up and joining your projects
• 12 April – Learn to Knit Socks
• 26 April – Introduction to Knitting Cables
• 10 May - Adding beautiful edgings to your knits

The Yarn Dispensary is a beautiful, friendly yarn shop housed in a historic building in the centre of Faversham, Kent. Faversham is just over an hour by train from London Victoria and St Pancras stations and is well worth a visit in itself. You could combine a class, with exploring the historic town, browsing the market and seeing a copy of the Magna Carter (for free just across from the shop).

Browse and book my upcoming workshops at the shop, here.

 

Mittens and the wonder of wool

Last week in Kent in turned very cold so it was time for the full DK mittens. I wear 4ply fingerless mitts a lot in winter even when out for a walk and find they keep my hands comfortable most of the time. But when the temperature drops I turn to handknit gloves or mittens.

 

Mittens from my Birdie cloche and mitten set using DK yarn.
Find the pattern on Ravelry and Payhip

Pure wool DK mittens, especially these from my Birdie pattern (they’re named after a great aunt), are increasingly my favourites. I have seen plenty of advice saying mittens are the best choice for warmth if dexterity isn’t a priority and my experience agrees.

According to at least one active wear website, mittens are warmer because your fingers share body heat and there is less surface area on a mitten than a glove. But I don’t need high-tech fabric to help keep my fingers cosy because there is wool!

The amazing temperature controlling properties of pure wool, along with my fingers snuggling together for warmth, means cosy hands even in last week’s chill. Plus, I can fit a pair of 4ply fingerless mitts under this pair if it gets even colder.

Funnily enough I have another Birdie set on the go already in some lovely Bluefaced Leicester from West Yorkshire Spinners. The hat is done and when I get a chance, in between design deadlines, I am ready to start the mittens.

 

Tip of the week: Check out your yarn labels, they are a fount of info

I'd like you to take a look at your yarn stash and read some labels. Quite often when we start a project we just discard the labels or leave then to languish in the bottom of the project bag, but they have a lot to say.

What the yarn is made of: The more you knit the more you learn about how different fibres behave so the fibre content listed can give you clues about how the yarn will be to knit with and what sort of fabric it might make.

Recommended needle size and tension: This doesn't mean that you must use these needles or that this is the tension that you will get in a particular pattern. Rather it is the average tension the manufacturer has found for that yarn on that size of needle. But this does give you clues to what range of needles this yarn will work best with.

The amount and length of the yarn in the ball or skein: Labels will often tell you how many metres there are in the ball as well as the weight. Some patterns will tell you how many metres of yarns are used in a project, so this can be very useful.

Washing instructions: Very useful - if I am giving a knitted item to a non-knitter I will often include a yarn label so they have official washing instructions.

Your goldilocks cast-on and other options

Do you have a favourite cast-on? The one that’s not too tight, not too loose, with a bit of elasticity (but not too much) and gives an edge you like. Just right like Goldilocks and the bears’ porridge.

Some people’s goldilocks cast on is the first one they ever learned. It works for them and they don’t have a good reason to change it. Other knitters will have tried several or have strong views on why they use the cable cast on rather than long tail or vice versa. Personally, my cable cast on is neater than my long-tail so that’s my “just right” option. But that doesn’t mean it will be yours – we’re back to different options suiting different hands again.

 

While your goldilocks cast-on will be great for most of your projects there will be times when you need something a little different. With 30 to 40 cast on methods to try. It can be worth experimenting with a few specialised ones – there are plenty of resources including books and videos to help. I'm a fan of a useful little book called Cast On Bind Off by Leslie Ann Bestor

Swatching your cast on

When (if) you make a tension square or swatch a knitting idea, do you think about your cast on at all?

It’s most likely that you give the cast on little more thought than as a way to getting to the gauge test. But if you are working on a new stitch or type of project, or trying a new yarn, it can be useful to knit a few rows in the edging pattern to see if your cast on is right. For example, some cast ons could be too tight or loose for the ribbing on a sock. Or pull too tight for a lace section.

When do you need a different cast on?

Among the times you might need to test and change your cast on include the neck of a top-down sweater, the cuff or a sock or a shawl that starts with a lace section that will be blocked.

The first two examples, the neckband and the sock cuff, are times when you might need more stretch in your cast on than usual. Luckily, there are plenty of stretchier cast-ons, including “alternating” versions for both the popular long-tail and a cable cast ons. These are versions where you cast on in rib, alternating the usual “knit” version of the cast on with a purl variation.

For the lace project, it may be worth swatching your pattern with your normal cast on and with one that can come out a bit loose such as the thumb (or backward loop) method or the basic knit on cast on. I find these cast ons can be a bit loose compared to my knitting tension so on a garment they’d give me an untidy edge but for a section of lace I am going to aggressively block out, that slack could be useful.

Other cast on types

Provisional cast ons – for example the crochet cast on. These are cast ons that allow you to “release” stitches from the start of your work to be knitted later. They are useful in lace and in some top down projects.

Decorative cast ons , such as a picot cast on and the Old Norwegian cast on, can give a different look to the edge of your work.

Multicolour cast ons create braided or contrasting edgings – great options for colour work hats and gloves.

Once you start building your cast on repertoire, you will find lots of interesting options but this doesn’t mean you will abandon your original goldilocks cast on. This is workhorse choice that will still be a good choice for much of your knitting. But you’ll have more choice and more confidence about knowing when your cast on is doing what you need.

New magazine pattern: Anika yoked top

Knitting magazine issue 227 is out and it's all about texture.

I've a couple of patterns and tutorial in it but today I'm just showing you Anika.

 

This short-sleeved 4-ply top is worked bottom-up in the round on the body and sleeves which then join for the yoke (don't ask about working out yoke shaping for 10 sizes!).

 

It features a slip-stitch texture pattern which is easy to work but very effective. I used Cascade Yarns Heritage for this which means a vast range of colour combinations - and as mention above the pattern offers 10 sizes. But any nice plain 4-plys would work for this - or perhaps a variegated for the contrast.

 

I'll share the other design later in the week.

Give the gift of warm hands

It's definitely chilly hands weather, so as well as making myself some extra fingerless mitts, I expect Mr Penguin will need some more fingerless gloves - he is very specific that they should be gloves not mitts.

 

 

I designed both Hamilton (grey) and Carmicheal (green) especially to his requirements and then discovered other men who would with the "gloves not mitts" requirement. The Hamilton pattern tends to be a favourite at this time of year with people looking for a last minute gift to make for a man in their life.

 

 

Both types are made in DK and matching hats are also available in a discounted bundle.

 

Plus Carmicheal includes advice on turning these into full fingered gloves should you want to give it a go.

 

Wishing you all warm hands.

 

Tip of the week: Use pins and wires to help block lace

 

Lace seems to be what most knitters associate with blocking. It generally requires a particular blocking method and some tools to get the best results.

A lace project rarely looks that great when it comes off the needles – it’s usually a bit scrunched up rather than looking floaty and ethereal.
 

To turn it into the finished item you will need something to pin your shawl out on, a lot of pins and if possible some blocking wires.

A lot of people use foam matts as the base for their blocking and I recommend T-pins – these a more robust than sewing pins and easy to see as you adjust your piece.

Collect your pins, wires, matts, measuring tape etc before you do anything else – juggling wet knitting while you look for the measuring tape isn’t that much fun.

Blocking wires are often the item that make people nervous. They are simply flexible wire rods that you can thread through your knitting. The main type are straight and unsurprisingly very helpful when you want to block one or more straight edge – thread them through your straight edge and then use a few pins to place each edge. You can also find finer wires that naturally sit in a curve.

The first step in the wet blocking process is to get your piece wet. Soak it in warm water – and no rinse wool wash if you want – for at least 15 minutes.

Once your knitting has soaked, lay a towel on a flat surface. Gently lift the knitting out of the water – let water drain off but DO NOT wring it out. Gently put your knitting on the towel keeping it as flat as possible. Roll the towel to create a knitting swiss roll and then gently squeeze it to draw the water out of your lace. You will end up with a damp but not dripping piece of knitting where the fibres have been thoroughly wetted through.

Then you are ready to lay out your knitting on your blocking surface. I generally start by threading the wires through the straight edges and pinning those in place then I work on curves, the points on edges etc.
 

Here I want the stocking stitch section to have straight edges,
so I’ve run a wire along at that point and then I am using pins
beyond that to open the lace border with a pin at the top
of each “leaf”.

 

 On this curved shawl I used wires for the straight side of the
semicircle and then pinned the curve at the halfway and then
the quarter way point, and so on, to help get the curve right.
 

Take your time to get the shape right and your lace opened nicely - you may move some pins several times. Then leave it to dry.
.
Don’t remove the pins or wires until you are sure your shawl is dry.

Tip of the Week: Don't think of blocking as stretching

Be warned this is one of my hobby horses.

I often hear or read: “I have never blocked my knitting.”

Quite frankly I don’t believe this.

I don’t believe that there is anyone who has neither reshaped a damp piece of knitting nor ever washed a knitted item.

The problem is a common misconception the “blocking” always involves wires, pins and extreme stretching. In fact, blocking is a general term for getting your knitted pieces wet – by soaking, steaming, spraying with water or covering with wet cloths – and then shaping it. The shaping could be a small adjustment to get straight edges or persuade you stocking stitch to unroll, or it could be more aggressive to open up a lace pattern.

There are lots of good reasons to block and they are all about getting a great finish to your project:

• Making your pieces the right shape
• Opening up or evening out your stitches – for example gentle blocking can really improve the look of colourwork

 

The crown of the hat has been steamed to even out  the
stitches and dried over a curved surface

• Letting your cables bloom.
• Opening up lace to create the final fine fabric

Blocking changed the Firebird shawl from the top pic to the bottom

There are several ways to block:

• Wash your knitting (following ball band instructions) and lay it out flat, gently adjusting it for size.
• Pin your pieces to shape on a foam board or a folded towel and stray with water or steam (I recommend a travel steamer). Then leave to dry.
• Pin out and cover with damp cloths, letting the moisture soak into to the knitting and then leaving to dry
• Using a steam iron to steam your pieces through a damp cloth. Note, always make sure the knitting is covered by the cloth and never touch your steam iron to the cloth, let alone the knitting.
• Wet blocking by soaking your pieces and pinning out – more on this tomorrow.

Personally, I tend towards steam or wet blocking because of the fibres and projects I choose.
How you block will depend on various factors:

• Fibres – wool has lots of spring so can take some aggressive stretching and wet blocking but this would distort cotton or bamboo yarns. Acrylic yarns don’t like too much heat – so steam from a greater distance.
• Stitches – take care not to over stretch of flatten cables. On the other hand, lace stitches need opening up so take more blocking and pinning out.
• The project – how much reshaping does your project need. A lace panel in a sweater will need to be opened out but you may not need/want to stretch you piece as much as a lace shawl where you will want a very light fabric.

And a big note. Blocking will even out stitches, it will not make you item fit I you’ve knitted the wrong size (well not without causing other problems).

If you are not sure what the best way to block your piece is, test various approaches on tension squares or extra swatches – see, that tension square is coming in useful yet again.
 

Tip of the week: Choosing your first lace project

 

Who says that lace has to be knitted in superfine laceweight yarn?
 

Yes, that will create a a very fine floaty item, but it isn't the only way to knit lace. You can use lace pattern in any yarn - for example this top I  designed for Knitting Magazine features a lace pattern knitted with two strands of a cotton bamboo DK.
 

In fact if you are completely new to lace, I recommend going for a DK or a 4-ply pattern so you can concentrate more on getting the hang of the techniques than worrying about tiny needle or seeing fine yarn. 

And while I generally say lace can be worked in any yarn you like, I would recommend avoiding something hairy like mohair for an early lace project because it is harder to see the lines of decrease and it can be a real pain to unpick, and most people will find the need to unpick when starting out with lace knitting.

If you need help with lace or any other knitting techniques, I can help. Find out more here.